The first thing to think about is whether or not to actually spend a winter in the southern hemisphere. My advice? Do it! The vibe down under is amazing, the people are cool while atmosphere is laid back and enjoyable. Also, there is some great skiing and loads of fun to be had.
Before my first season here I had a few people tell me not to expect too much as the mountains are not nearly as good as I might have experienced in Europe. Rubbish! I had more fun in New Zealand than I did in the three valleys, France. Supposedly the largest ski area in the world. True the ski fields are smaller, and the major ones might only have 3 or 4 lifts. But this does not automatically make them worse.
A short hike, or traverse away from the pistes can provide some sweet off piste terrain. Cliffs drops and off piste chutes are common place, and as the areas are comparatively small you’ll get to know the best places to go and which hikes to take quickly enough.
Epic powder days are rarer than you might get in the Northern Hemisphere, and the word epic might not be apt. But I did experience a good amount of powder in NZ and enjoyed every minute of it!
If epic is what you’re after then I have heard, and seen on many a video, that there is some amazing heli-skiing to be had. From the little research I have done it seems to be very reasonably priced.
When you’ve decided that you are going to commit to a ski season down under, I guess you then look at where. This is an important decision, and choosing the perfect ski field and town for you could make a big difference to how much you enjoy your time in New Zealand. To make the correct decision, first think about what it is you want to get out of your season, and what exactly you want to do.
I have only experienced of a few places, but they were very different:
Queenstown
The Remarkables ski field is the place to be if you are interested in freestyle skiing or snowboarding. There is a good beginners park with a few jumps and loads of fun features, while the advanced park provides big airs and heaps of rails. The Burton Stash is The Remarkables stand out attraction, with some awesome and features built from natural materials following the natural terrain. I’ve spent many a day taking pics, filming, and jibbing in The Stash. There are some easily accessible chutes and drops and on a powder day there are some awesome powder runs.
A separate pass can be bought for The Remarkables and it is open a week or two later. Coronet might be a bit better for the first few weeks if you are beginner as there runs a longer and more plentiful. But I love The Remarkables, and had an awesome time in Queenstown.
Wanaka
Wanaka is in-between the party town that is Queenstown, and the quieter ski towns around New Zealand. The town is a nice size with a few bars and shops and creates and relaxed but fun atmosphere. There are two major ski fields: Cardrona; and Treble Cone; with the smaller club field of Ohau also drawing some attention. While SnowPark and SnowFIeld offer specialist skiing and snowboarding.
Treble cone has steeper pistes and is more of a draw the freeriders out there, and apparently is the best place to venture on a powder day. Cardrona is well known for it’s awesome park and international events. Both have race teams practice there. Ohau is a bit further out of town, and as with most club fields will probably be quieter, but has less lifts. Snowpark is a world famous freestyle park, with rails features and kickers all appearing in movies and drawing world class riders and film crews. But as far as I know, only has one piste that is feature free.
I’m in Wanaka at the moment and enjoying the friendly people, easy going atmosphere, and beautiful scenery. But think there will be less partying than there was in Queenstown.
Christchurch/Methaven
If it’s a quitter ski season you re after, then Methhaven is the town closest to the Mt Hutt ski-filed. The town is small, relatively quiet, but has a friendly feel and sweet ski field on it’s door step. Christchurch obviously has a lot more going on but is a lot further away. Only really an option if you intend to ski once or twice a week.
Club Fields
There are small towns with club fields all over the South Island. This is what i would recommend if you want a more local experience. If you want to get to know the people who ski at your ski field and feel part of a community, look at the club fields around. I have never been to a club field, but what from what i can tell, they have few lifts, which are mainly drag lifts. They can provide awesome free runs, but a hike or traverse will be necessary. I had a friend that spent a year at Roundhill, living by lake Tekapo. He had fun, and living by the beautiful lake can only be a privilege.
Employment
If employment is your main concern then you can try and get a job before you take off by applying online to the various ski fields. If you don’t manage to get a job before you depart then the busy towns will have more jobs, but more competition. Queenstown is the main tourist town, with plenty of hotels, shops and bars. As with most towns jobs will become available when the snow comes and tourists start to flood in. Until the snow arrives, jobs will most likely be taken by people who’ve been in the town all summer. Due to the competition it can be a lot of effort, and people can find themselves herding out CV’s for a week or two before even getting an interview.
I went to NZ a few months before the season started and picked fruit for a few months. I didn’t make that much money due to weather holding back work, but it did pay for my pass and snowboard.
Lessons / Camps / Instructor Courses
There are heaps of courses in New Zealand, most internationally recognised. The freestyle coaches, especially at the major ski fields are world class. Racing is also well represented and some Olympic race teams train at major resorts, particularly Coronet Peak and Treble Cone. The beginner courses are plentiful, and it’s a great place to learn to ski or snowboard. Many people I met were beginners and I saw some amazing progression. People are friendly and encouraging down under, so there should be no apprehension or fear if you’re a newbie.
The instructor courses and mountain safety/patroller courses are internationally recognised and well valued by other countries. As far as I know France and Italy are the only countries that might not allow you to teach with the NZ qualifications. Many instructors learn their trade here before teaching in the USA or Canada in the Northern Hemisphere winters.
The courses can differ massively in what they entail and cost. Instructor courses can be five days a week and include full board and transport. These tend to be expensive, but comprehensive. If you are already pretty good and happy with your technique, then some courses are as little as one day a week, which obviously costs less. All I can advise on this point is to look at the websites of the ski fields you are considering.
Cost of living
If it’s a cheap season you want, you are going to the right place. Compared to Europe living in New Zealand is cheap. Rent is cheap and food is not expensive. Gas can be pricey so if you haven’t got a wood burning fire in your house, then prepare to be cold. If you want a warm and hassle free season some hostels do offer cheap long term prices. This is especially the case in Queenstown where you can get a bed in a warm room, free wifi and space to dry your ski gear for under $150 per week. As far as I can tell rent gets even cheaper in the small more remote towns. Alternatively you could try home-stays or work for accommodation at one of the many hostels around New Zealand. Get in their early though if you are going to live in a house or apparent as the best places will be gone a few weeks into the season.
The only thing that I think is expensive are the lift passes and gear rental. If you are going to New Zealand then buy early and get the early bird prices. Second hand gear can be bought on trademe.co.nz, or at the charity shops, and most shops have pre-season sales to get rid off last years stock. But the best option I have seen is to go into rental shops and ask if they have ex-rental ski gear to sell.
Summary
Getting a job after arrival can be difficult, but doable. The ski fields and towns differ dramatically, so choose wisely. Accommodation options are plentiful and cheap before the season, but limited later on. Instructor courses are world recognised but not in France. Good second hand gear is cheap and plentiful. It’s awesome in NZ, so have fun!
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